Behind the counter of her magnificent Yiddish specialty shop, at the corner of rue des Rosiers and rue Écouffes, in the Marais – historic district of the Jewish community in Paris -, Florence Kahn is chatting that afternoon, jovially, with one of his clients. Two pastrami sandwiches and a braided brioche packed later, the fifty-year-old dynamic easily concedes it: thirty-three years after joining the establishment, she plays today “A unifying role” within the local Jewish community, in particular by ensuring the transmission of the culinary traditions of his ancestors.
→ TO LISTEN. Find all the episodes of “Around the table”, the 4th season of our podcast “Place des religions”
Cumin bread, beurek with grilled vegetables, Hungarian strudel, hummus, smoked turkey with paprika, tarama, bagels… No question, however, for her of being only turned to the past. “I have adapted to modernity, to today’s culinary habits. I don’t want this Ashkenazi cuisine to be ghetto cuisine, which could fossilize and become extinct ”, she confides in this second episode of the podcast “Place des Religions”.
“Memory of the mouth”
“This passion for cooking was passed on to me by my parents, my grandparents. But above all, I was as though imbued with a duty of memory, not towards religion, but towards this memory which really comes out of the mouth, of everyone… ”, continues the author ofnumerous collections of recipes, including The Great Book of Ashkenazi Jewish Cuisine (1).
→ RECIPE.With latkes, Florence Kahn shares the pleasure of Jewish cuisine
While her shop experiences a certain buzz around Jewish holidays, from Shabbat to Yom Kippur via Rosh Hashanah, Florence Kahn does not describe herself as a religious woman: “I didn’t grow up in a religious family at all. You have to know one thing, it is that the Ashkenazi Jewish families who were touched by the Shoah really have a hard time believing in God afterwards! The latter was therefore not at all the center of my attention … But tradition, the preservation of Jewish life habits, have been! “
→ READ. Old Jewish dish becomes Israel’s new ‘melting pot’
Among the other invited personalities: Thierry Marx, two-star chef and follower of Buddhism; Djamel Bouhadda, chef of the halal gourmet restaurant Le Médaillon; Stéphane Esclef, rector of the Sacré-Cœur basilica in Montmartre and former chef in major Parisian palaces …
A weekly podcast
Every Wednesday from September 29, 8 episodes of season 4 of “Place des religions”, to listen to on the newspaper’s website and app The cross and on all platforms.
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To listen to season 4 of the “Place des religions” podcast, subscribe for free on the following platforms: Apple Podcasts – Podcast Addict – Spotify –Deezer – Google Podcasts – YouTube – Castbox
→ TO PLAY BACK. Place des religions, season 1: so be they
→ RE-LISTEN: Place des religions, season 2: words from politicians
→ TO PLAY BACK. Place des religions, season 3: the choice of risk
Editor-in-chief: Jérôme Chapuis and Fabienne Lemahieu. Editorial manager: Clémence Maret. Journalist in the Religion Department: Malo Tresca. Production manager: Célestine Albert-Steward. Director: Flavien Edenne and Clémence Maret. Sound mixing: Jules Wysocki. Marketing manager: Laurence Szabason. Graphic identity: Kimi Kimoki and Mathieu Ughetti. Musical creation: Arnaud Forest.